[Avodah] What does mevushal mean?

[martin brody]

> "Note the statements "The technique does not noticeably harm the wine. In
> fact, flash-pasteurization is used at a number of very well known
> non-kosher wineries, where it is thought to improve certain aromatics."
>
> YL"
>

Not sure what you are trying to prove or disprove, but here are Daniel
Rogov's (OBM) comments on fine mevushal wines. I really don't mean to be
disrespectful but the Kedem wine that you drink is extremely low on the
totem pole of quality.


A large part of the impact of flash Pasteurization depends on precisely how
the process is carried out. Among the major possibilities:

a. Flash pasteurization of the must (before fermentation has begun) in tanks
b. Flash pasteurization of the must as it passes through heated pipes
c. Pasteurization of the wine in stainless steel tanks

Under system "a", I have found that after the wine is bottled major
differences will be felt largely because of the different kinds of yeasts
and quantities of sulfites that are required. Such differences are barely,
if at all, noticeable until the wine has been in the bottle for about one
year and at that time a marked decrease is noted in both aroma and level of
fruitiness.

Under system "b", which is used not only in making kosher mevushal wines
but by quite a few French producers (especially in Burgundy and the Rhone
Valley), not only is there no harm but when done correctly (requiring
state-of-the-art technology) it can actually enhance the nose and flavors
of the wine. Alas, this system is rarelly used in making kosher mevushal
wines first because many rabbinical authorities will not accept it (being
honest, it is not a true Pasteurization but a symbollic one)and second
because it can be quite expensive.

Under system "c", the most commonly used in making mevushal kosher wines,
the effects are almost always negative. Agreed that it takes a very well
honed palate to distinguish the differences a few months after bottling
(waiting until after bottle-shock for first tastings) and sometimes even
the finest palate will not discern the differences. Given six months after
bottling, however, the impact becomes clear, the mevushal wines showing
distinct harm to the flavor potential and some harm to the nose. In worst
case scenarios, after six months, the mevushal wines begin to show distinct
notes of being "cooked" - e.g. what were once fresh fruits taking on a
fruit compote nature. From 14-16 months, wines that have been flash
Pasteurized in this manner show distinct cooked aromas and flavors, often
taking on a rather unique form of cooked flavors that at their worst remind
one of the aroma of skunk perfume.

As I have said on earlier posts, there are only a few (very few) wineries
that succeed in producing truly high quality kosher mevushal wines that are
capable of aging. More than that, some of those wineries succeed "on the
grand scale". Those winemakers do not often discuss the specific details of
their methodology. I can appreciate that because it does eliminate the
"heat of combat" that sometimes rises in discussions about just who said
that just what is the "right" way to do it.

It should also be noted that some winemakers who produce kosher mevushal
wines even by the most traditional methods disagree with my perspective.

Best
Rogov



-- 
Martin Brody
310 474 1856
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.aishdas.org/pipermail/avodah-aishdas.org/attachments/20130724/444ed98c/attachment-0002.htm>